The nail technician must understand the chemistry of the product and how the product works. This helps to solve any problems that occur in the application and when the extensions are finished. To build up a natural looking and strong overlay it helps to understand the different zones of the nail extension structure.

Zone 1

The edge of the nail. It should be very thin at the edge, and gradually thicker towards zone 2. If the nail is thick at the free edge, the nails will appear false. The barrel of the natural nail is curved, thin and sharp looking. Enhancements should be structured in the same way.

Zone 2

The stress area. This is where the overlay should be thickest for maximum strength. This is the meeting point of the two arches; the upper arch and the 'C' curve.

Zone 3

The cuticle area. This should be thin like zone 1 to avoid an ugly ridge. This area has the most problems with lifting. A small margin should be left around this area to avoid product on the skin. Lifting will occur if product touches skin tissue.